Last week, I shared my experience in Cuatro Ciénegas, an inspiring region where nature’s beauty is on full display. One of the most fascinating aspects of the area is its ability to cultivate wine in a desert environment. Despite the dry landscape, the region’s distinctive geographical features and climate conditions, including underground springs, create microclimates that support viticulture. Situated in Coahuila, Mexico, Cuatro Ciénegas isn’t typically recognized as a traditional wine country region but is earning recognition for its unique climate and terroir.
During my visit, I had the opportunity to visit the vineyard Tierra Maria and meet with Marco Guevara, sommelier and manager. The first thing I noticed was the smell of lavender and the magnificent setting around me.
Marco took us through the winery, the vines and the fabulous six-bedroom villa on the property He talked about how the mission of the winery was to improve the ecosystem and to practice organic and biodynamic methods in the vineyard.
The winery is part of the Grupo Eco, which is a hospitality group based in Mexico.
While Cuatro Ciénegas may not be as widely recognized as its neighboring town of Parras, it boasts unique charm, and the wineries are figuring out what grows best in these unique microclimates in the terroir of the region. The region’s geographical features, including its elevation and proximity to mountains, contribute to a climate that can support the growth of certain grape varieties. Marco talked candidly about the trial-and-error process that any emerging region experiences. He told me, “We don’t have any regions or any current rules, so we have the ability to learn and adjust.”
The winery has a diverse range of varietals, including both classic and indigenous grape varieties. Today 15 people work in the winery with another 10 in other departments.
2023 Tierra Maria Moscatel Semillon – notes of jasmine, orange blossom, citrus, apple, and honeysuckle. It was a great glass for a sunny day.
2023 Tierra Maria Tempranillo – this was my favorite wine of the trip. I tasted lots of black fruit, black pepper, plum, and herbs. It was a nice wine.
2020 Don Linde Shiraz – known as the grape of the region, this 100 percent shiraz was a collaboration between Casa Madero and Don Leo. They started an incubator dedicated to enology and finding the grapes that will do well in the region. It was a bold wine with notes of black fruit, leather, plum, oak, and chocolate. While this wasn’t directly from the winery, it showed the innovation happening in the region.
When I was back in Dallas, I had the chance to taste red wines from Casa Saltillo, a region in Valle de Parras, one of the better-known wine regions.
2019 Casa Saltillo Cabernet Sauvignon – notes of dark chocolate, currant, plum, cedar and black pepper.
2019 Casa Saltillo Trio – a blend of 65 percent Shiraz, 25 percent Merlot and 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. I tasted dark cherry, oak, currant, vanilla, and mocha.
2019 Casa Saltillo Merlot – well balanced with notes of raspberries, blueberry, cherry, and vanilla. This was one of my favorites!
2020 Casa Saltillo Shiraz – an intense wine with lots of smokiness, red meat, black fruit, pepper, and spice.
Cuatro Ciénegas is an emerging wine region that is taking a unique approach to viticulture. The area’s ability to cultivate wine in a desert environment shows the potential of its distinctive terroir and microclimates. Tierra Maria and other wineries are leading the way, embracing organic and biodynamic practices while exploring the diverse range of varietals that thrive in the region.
