I recently had the privilege of joining a virtual tasting with Piero Rossi Cairo, owner of Tenuta Cucco, and winemaker Clara Milani, where we explored the fascinating resurrection of this historic Piedmont estate. The story of Tenuta Cucco is one of renewal – when the Rossi Cairo family acquired the property in 2014, they not only embraced conscious viticulture practices but also breathed new life into the legendary Cerrati Cru. This acclaimed vineyard site had mysteriously disappeared from Barolo’s radar for nearly two decades. They were determined to bring it back.
Founded in the 1960s, Tenuta Cucco’s renaissance began in 2015 when the Rossi Cairo family acquired the estate. The family, already successful with their biodynamic La Raia estate in Novi Ligure, saw untapped potential in Cucco’s 13 hectares of prime Serralunga territory. The winery was rolled into the Tenimenti Rossi Cairo biodiversity project, which is a project focusing on Gavi and the Langhe.
The Terroir
Due to its unique soil composition, Serralunga d’Alba is known for producing some of the most structured and long-lived Barolos. Serralunga d’Alba is known for:
- Soils rich in limestone and calcareous, containing the highest concentration of calcium carbonate in the Barolo zone
- Elevations ranging from 230 to 400 meters above sea level
- A unique microclimate featuring significant day-night temperature variations
- Ancient, thin soils causing vine roots to grow deep
Conscious Viticulture
Under the Rossi Cairo family, Tenuta Cucco. embraces organic farming practices, though the dense vineyard plantings of the Langhe region present unique challenges. They also own La Raia, a sister winery in the Gavi region, which is a Demeter-certified organic and biodynamic farm. Barolo is the flagship wine made from three distinctive vineyards: Cerrati, Bricco Voghera, and Vigna Cucco. Plans for a sparkling wine is also underway.
The winery’s underground cellar combines modern climate control with traditional winemaking techniques, while winemaker Clara Milani crafts expressions that honor the terroir using Austrian oak and vintage-specific vinification methods. The rediscovery of Cerrati Cru, whose name “cucco” refers to its prestigious hilltop location, represents both a connection to the past and a vision for the future.
The Wines
As we tasted through their lineup, including the 2023 Nebbiolo and three distinct 2020 Barolos, Piero and Clara shared their commitment to sustainable farming.
I tried the following line-up:
- 2023 Tenuta Cucco Langhe Nebbiolo – big notes of cherry, strawberries, rose petals, and spice. Lots of fruit and a fresher expression.
- 2020 Tenuta Cucco Barolo Serralunga – notes of cherries, tea, tar, and thyme. This is a powerful and expressive wine.
- 2020 Tenuta Cucco Barolo Cerrati – Notes of cherry, cocoa, cranberry, plum, licorice, oak spice, cloves, vanilla, rose, leather, and earth. This is a wine that will do well with aging and benefits from the cru’s 400-meter elevation.
- 2020 Tenuta Cucco Barolo Bricco Voghera — cherries, balsamic, herbal notes, spice and spice.
At Tenuta Cucco, the fusion of tradition and innovation creates a compelling vision for the future of Barolo. Under the leadership of the Rossi Cairo family and winemaker Clara Milani, this historic estate demonstrates how conscious farming practices can enhance rather than compromise the expression of terroir. While the dense plantings of the Langhe region present unique challenges for organic certification, the estate’s commitment to sustainable viticulture and the revival of the forgotten Cerrati Cru shows that focus, patience, and dedication can yield extraordinary results. As Piero Rossi Cairo notes, “farming takes decades to apply changes,” but the journey of Tenuta Cucco proves that conscious viniculture can honor both the land’s heritage and its future potential.
