In the ever-evolving world of wine, Spain’s Grandes Pagos de España (GPE) is leading a revolution that’s as much about innovation as it is about tradition. This association of elite Spanish wineries is redefining quality and terroir expression through their commitment to single-vineyard wines. While I have been to Spain on several press trips, the single vineyard was not the discussion. This differs from traditional Spanish Appellations of Origin (AOCs) or Denominaciones de Origen (DOs).
I had the opportunity to attend a “Terroir Workshop” at The Dallas Wine Education Center/Blind Bishop focusing on the Grandes Pagos de España, the “Grands Crus” of Spain, led by Master of Wine Dilek Caner and Winemaker Adolfo Hornos of Pago Vallegarcía. There’s a reason why Dilek has trained most of my Dallas friends on getting WSET certified. She’s a great teacher.
The Single Vineyard Philosophy
At the heart of GPE’s innovation is the focus on single vineyard wines. This approach, known as “Vino de Pago,” celebrates the characteristics of individual plots of land and what makes them special. By concentrating on specific terroirs, GPE members can craft wines that are true expressions of their origin, showcasing the personality imparted by soil, subsoil, and microclimate.
This approach focuses on the unique characteristics of individual plots of land, allowing for wines that are true expressions of their specific terroir. Traditional Spanish AOCs, on the other hand, typically cover broader geographical areas and may include multiple vineyards and producers. Spain has many different climates and geographies that cultivate different varietals of grapes producing great signature wines.
A Growing Movement
What started as a small group of visionary producers in 2000 has blossomed into a formidable force in Spanish wine. Today, GPE boasts 34 wineries, cultivating a total of 1,868 hectares.
It’s a bold new direction in Spanish winemaking. By focusing on single vineyard wines, embracing diversity, committing to sustainability, and fostering a culture of innovation and knowledge sharing the best wines can be crafted in the style of the Grand Cru’s of other regions.
Diversity in Unity
One of the most innovative aspects of GPE is its embrace of diversity within a unified vision. The association’s members work with over 60 grape varieties.. This variety allows for a stunning array of wines that reflect Spain’s rich viticultural heritage while experimenting with lesser-known varietals.
Sustainability at the Forefront
Innovation for GPE isn’t just about what’s in the bottle; it’s about how that wine gets from the vineyard until production. Today 26 out of 34 vineyards practice ecological viticulture, with 13 that are certified.
Research and Development
GPE’s innovative spirit is evident in its dedication to research and development – with 24 out of 34 members investing in R&D. This focus on advancement ensures that GPE wines are rooted in tradition and at the cutting edge of winemaking technology and techniques. Over sixty grape varieties are cultivated including tempranillo, Garnacha, Cariñena, Bobal, Monastrell, Syrah, Verdejo, Viura, Petit Verdot, Albariño, Parellada, Moscatel, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
A Global Perspective
While deeply committed to their Spanish roots, GPE wineries are not insular — 23 of the member wineries export more than 50% of their production. International wine trends are being looked at closely to see if they could be used by the GPE.
The Knowledge Network
One of GPE’s most innovative features is its internal “Knowledge Network.” This committee of technicians, including winemakers, technical directors, and vineyard managers, meets regularly to exchange knowledge, promote discussion, and collaborate on R&D. To qualify, the wineries must come from an exceptional single vineyard, the winery should be recognized for the wines produced for at least five years and have received awards in national and international competitions. A technical auditing committee affirms the wine meets criteria in a vertical tasting and inspects the winery.
In addition, an external committee of expert tasters are responsible for evaluating all wines certified by the group. The committee consists of sommeliers, consultants and trainers who meet several times a year to blind taste the wines.
Looking to the Future
The association is actively planning with initiatives like their Training Plan, which creates ambassadors for Spanish terroir culture worldwide, and the GPE talent program, which trains professionals in various aspects of the wine industry.
Sustainability
The GPE has launched a sustainability committee to exchange ideas and promote advances in sustainability. Sustainability is at the core of Grandes Pagos’ philosophy, as wineries commit to employing eco-friendly practices such as organic farming and solar power to minimize their environmental footprint, using traditional winemaking techniques that highlight character without compromising quality or the land.
The Wineries That Make Up the GPE
The wineries that are members and participated in our tasting include Astobiza, Mustigullo, Clos D’Agon, Bodegas Alvear, Secastilla, Finca Sandoval SA, Abadía Retuerta, Mas Doix, Pago De Vallegarcía, Gramona, Bodega Fillaboa, Belondrade, Finca Montepedroso, Finca Élez, Can Ràfols Del Caus, Cérvoles, Ribas, Enrique Mendoza, Palacio Quemado, Finca Moncloa, Cortijo Los Aguilares, Dehesa Del Carrizal, Marques de Griñon, J. Chivite Family Estates, Valencisco, Finca Valpiedra, Fuentes Del Silencio, Viñedos Alonso Del Yerro, Sei Solo Bodegas Y Viñedos, Aalto, Bodega Numanthia and Valdespino. Alta Alella is also a member but wasn’t part of our tasting.
The innovative approach proves that Grandes Pagos is more than an appellation; it encapsulates the spirit and authenticity of Spanish winemaking.
