This week I had the privilege of attending a master class on Saint-Joseph in the Northern Rhône region, led by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein. This experience, which included a Master the World tasting kit, offered a deep dive into one of France’s most intriguing wine appellations. Saint-Joseph, often described as an undiscovered jewel of the Northern Rhône Valley, is the largest appellation in the region, covering 920 hectares of vineyards along a 65-kilometer stretch on the west bank of the Rhône River.
The area spans over 30 miles from north to south and showcases a diverse range of stylistic interpretations within the appellation.
Terroir and Climate
The unique character of Saint-Joseph wines is deeply rooted in its terroir:
- East-facing slopes with predominantly granite soils that differ by location. In the north, granite is looser. In the south, it is coarse, semi-degraded and more solid.
- Semi-continental climate with Mediterranean influences.
- The cold, dry north wind known as “la bise,” which cleanses the atmosphere and accelerates grape maturation
The granite-rich soils are crucial, imparting elegance, austerity, tension, and brightness to the wines. The granite composition changes from north to south, with looser granite and cooler temperatures in the north, and coarser, semi-degraded granite in the south.
Wine Production
Saint-Joseph primarily produces red wines, accounting for about 90% of its output. These reds are made predominantly from Syrah grapes, with AOC regulations allowing adding up to 10% Marsanne or Roussanne. The remaining 10% of production is dedicated to white wines, crafted from Marsanne and Roussanne varieties. Evan talked about the wine communes and how banding together helped the wine growers negotiate improved rates and work together on best practices, allowing them to make better wine. Today, there are 418 communes, and the area is the second-largest AOC region by volume and acreage.
Tasting Experience
Our master class included a tasting of six distinctive Saint-Joseph wines:
- 2023 Paul Jaboulet Aîné “Le Grand Pompée” (75% Marsanne, 25% Roussanne). I tasted honeysuckle, stone fruit, almond and a nice minerality.
- 2021 Domaine Coursodon “Les Silices” (100% Marsanne) – this had notes of jasmine, citrus, green apple and herbs. This one was crisp with minerality.
- 2020 Michel Chapoutier “Les Granilites” (100% Marsanne) – this was the richest white wine we tried. It had notes of apricot, honey, jasmine, pear and pine nuts.
- 2020 E. Guigal (100% Syrah) – notes of black fruit, black pepper, and a hint of cocoa.
- 2020 Cave de Tain “Esprit de Granit” (100% Syrah) – notes of dark fruit, violets, black tapenade, spice and leather. Had a nice balance.
- 2022 Maison Les Alexandrins (100% Syrah) – this wine had red and black fruit, floral notes and black pepper.
Each wine showcased the unique characteristics of its terroir and winemaking style, from the floral to the fuller, more powerful expressions.
Sustainability and Future
Saint-Joseph is part of a larger movement towards sustainability in the Rhône Valley. With 10% of vineyards being organic, it contributes significantly to Southeast France’s total organic production. The appellation’s commitment to quality and terroir expression, combined with its more accessible pricing compared to neighbors like Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, makes Saint-Joseph an increasingly popular choice.
Saint-Joseph offers a spectrum of wines that beautifully express the granitic terroir of the Northern Rhône. From elegant, food-friendly reds to complex, full-bodied whites, this appellation continues to shine as a source of high-quality, distinctive wines that are worth exploring.
