DaVero’s Climate-First Approach to Italian Varietals in Sonoma

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Ridgely Evers’ philosophy of “Grow What Belongs Here” is at the heart of DaVero Farms & Winery’s identity and farming practices. For Evers, this mantra is more than a slogan — it’s a guiding principle rooted in deep respect for the land, climate, and the natural balance of the ecosystem.

 

The Beginning

 

Back in 1982, Ridgely Evers, a tech entrepreneur with the title of former CEO of Netbooks on his resume, found himself drawn to a hillside property in Dry Creek Valley. While most newcomers to Sonoma dream of planting a vineyard, he instead planted olive trees, importing cuttings from an 800-year-old grove in Italy. The olive oil that followed was so good it once fooled Italian judges into thinking it was the best of Tuscany, only to discover it was grown in California.

 

His wine “a-ha” moment came in 1999, over dinner in New York, when Ridgely tasted a glass of Paolo Bea’s Sagrantino di Montefalco. That one sip convinced him to plant Sagrantino and Sangiovese in Sonoma. At the time, the Sagrantino grape was unknown in California.

 

Climate-First Grape Selection

 

 

DaVero’s Climate-First Approach to Italian Varietals in Sonoma
The Gorgeous Grounds of DaVero

 

 

A Few of the Wines We Tried

 

 

Unlike many Sonoma wineries that focus on popular varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Evers believes that true wine quality and sustainability come from planting grapes naturally suited to the region’s Mediterranean climate. He points out that for decades, California growers tried to force varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon into climates where they struggled, requiring heavy intervention and chemicals to survive. Instead, Evers chooses Italian and Mediterranean varietals such as Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Montepulciano, Fiano, and Pallagrello Bianco, which thrive in Sonoma’s warm, dry summers and mild winters.

 

Regenerative and Biodynamic Farming

 

 

DaVero’s Climate-First Approach to Italian Varietals in Sonoma
My Favorite New Friend

 

 

Evers’ approach extends beyond grape selection to how the land is farmed. By referring to the property as a living farm winery, DaVero shows its leadership in regenerative and Biodynamic agriculture, focusing on building healthy soils. The soil serves as the foundation that enhances biodiversity and fosters a closed-loop ecosystem. This means cover cropping, animal grazing, composting, and minimal tillage—all practices that restore soil vitality and resilience. The result is a vibrant, living farm where each element supports the others, from olive groves and vineyards to fruit orchards and wild woodlands. And of course, my favorite pig friend.

 

Patience and Place

 

 

DaVero’s Climate-First Approach to Italian Varietals in Sonoma
A Healthy and Green Environment

 

 

Central to “Grow What Belongs Here” is patience. Evers is committed to letting nature lead, planting only in open meadows and never clearing woodland for agriculture. Walking the grounds of the winery, you get a sense of how healthy the land is. Everything is vibrant and blooming. Evers believes that when the right varietal is grown in the right place, the vines are healthier, require less water, and are more resistant to disease. This philosophy produces wines that are authentic expressions of their site and vintage—true time capsules of place and season.

 

DaVero’s wines are made with a philosophy of minimal intervention. Native yeasts, spontaneous fermentation, and a deep respect for vintage variation mean that each bottle is a snapshot of a particular year, vineyard, and climate. There’s no attempt to chase a style or mask the character of the fruit. Instead, they trust that when you grow the right grape in the right place, the wine will tell its own story.

 

A Very Special Dinner

 

 

DaVero’s Climate-First Approach to Italian Varietals in Sonoma
Amazing Soup That I Still Dream About

 

 

 

DaVero’s Climate-First Approach to Italian Varietals in Sonoma
A Great Place to Try Food and Wine Pairings and Hear the Story

 

 

I was there for a dinner at the #wwetsoco for a wine and food tasting dinner generously hosted by DaVero.  DaVero Farms & Winery is co-owned by Colleen McGlynn, who is a highly accomplished chef.  She brought the wines to life with a series of different pairings.

 

A Model for the Future

 

Evers sees this approach as a model for sustainable winegrowing in California. By focusing on climate-appropriate varietals and regenerative farming, DaVero not only produces distinctive, expressive wines but also helps address challenges like water scarcity and climate change. It is a story about stewardship, balance, and a deep-rooted belief that the land itself knows best.

 

DaVero isn’t just making wine—it’s rewriting the rules with a “grow what belongs” mindset. Ridgely ditched the known varietals and leaned into Italian varietals that thrive in Sonoma’s climate. The result is wines with soul, sustainability with purpose, and a farm that’s as alive as the wines it produces. I tried not to bring home wine because I have so much, but I couldn’t help myself.

 

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