Just last week, I had the privilege of meeting with Braiden Albrecht, the third winemaker on record to lead Mayacamas since its founding in the late 1800s. Our conversation took place as Mayacamas was celebrating the release of a collection of Cabernet Sauvignon from key moments in the 21st century.
This 20-year retrospective of Cabernet Sauvignon includes the newly released 2020 vintage, alongside the re-released 2010 vintage and the renowned 2000 vintage in magnum. More about that in a moment.
The History of Mayacamas
Mayacamas Winery is one of Napa Valley’s most historic wineries, with a rich legacy dating back to 1889 dating back to pre-Prohibition. Mayacamas is one of those historic and ancient properties; Located high on the hills of Mount Veeder. Mayacamas is known for age-worthy, classically styled wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.
The winery was established by John Henry Fisher, a German immigrant who saw potential in the rugged terrain and volcanic soils of Mount Veeder. The name “Mayacamas” is derived from the Native American tribe that once lived in the region, reflecting the deep connection between the land and history.
In the 50’s it was purchased by the Travers family, and it thrived under the leadership of Bob Travers, who took over in 1968. Bob’s approach focused on minimal intervention, natural fermentation, and extended aging, which contributed to the winery’s reputation for producing wines with remarkable structure and longevity. Bob was instrumental in shaping the winery’s reputation, particularly with the 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon, which was included in the famous Judgment of Paris tasting in 1976. Bob’s approach of employing traditional methods consistently over 45 vintages—over 60 years—resulted in a singular winemaking style that Mayacamas is known for.
In July 2013, the winery was acquired by the Jay Schottenstein family. The family began a restoration of the winery and vineyards. They aimed to maintain the traditional winemaking techniques that had defined Mayacamas for decades, while also enhancing the vineyard’s health through organic viticultural practices. They brought in a new team that is led by winemaker Braiden Albrecht, who also oversees CCOF organic viticultural practices. Braiden talked about how a new team was in place, but they were still focused on making wines true to the vineyard like Bob did during his tenure. Braiden told me, “It’s about reading between the vines and making sure that you represent them well with vintage and style.” He just hoped that Bob would tell him the wines continued to be really good over time. (He did!)
About Braiden
As the winemaker at Mayacamas, Braiden Albrecht oversees all aspects of wine production, from grape cultivation to the final bottling. Albrecht, along with his team, has maintained the classical style of Mayacamas wines, ensuring that each bottle reflects the unique terroir of Mount Veeder. Under his guidance, the wines continue to be known for their high acidity, firm tannic structure, and remarkable aging potential.
Braiden has been the winemaker at Mayacamas since 2013, when the Schottenstein family purchased the historic winery. Braiden has stayed true to the tradition of those who farmed before him. His method involves harvesting grapes earlier than other producers using minimal new oak during the aging process, including the use of natural fermentation, rehabbing old vineyard blocks, farming with minimal intervention, and extended aging in neutral oak barrels.
Before joining Mayacamas, Braiden gained experience in working at several wineries in New Zealand and Australia, where he honed his skills in both vineyard management and winemaking. After getting a degree from UC Berkley in economics and viniculture, he had an opportunity to work on a project associated with BP and the oil spill. He was there a year and realized when he came home for a holiday party how much he missed the wine business.
Phil Coturri, a well-known vintner, who is close friends with Albrecht’s parents and a mentor to Braiden, was overseeing the planting of the vineyards to be organic and reached out to him about the opportunity. This experience allowed him to develop a nuanced understanding of the complexities involved in producing high-quality wines, particularly in regions with challenging growing conditions like Mount Veeder.
Albrecht is particularly committed to preserving the unique qualities of the Mount Veeder vineyards, which sit at a high elevation and are influenced by volcanic soils. His work in the vineyard is focused on organic farming practices, which not only promote the health of the vines but also enhance the expression of terroir in the wines. This dedication to sustainable viticulture is in line with Mayacamas’ broader commitment to environmental stewardship.
The Wines
“We are super excited about this offering,” he told me. “Tasting older vintages is always fascinating, and it shows what was happening in the world – and in the vineyards – in 2000, 2010, and 2020.”
There are a few notable things that happened in the years tasted. The 2000 harvest occurred in September, wrapping up in early October – much later than recent harvests. Lots of black cherry, basil, nice aromatics, with notes of savory and minerality.
The 2010 vintage – rated as one of the best Napa vintages – Braiden notes, “I find this is a very balanced wine 14 years in, with power and finesse I recommend decanting it for 30 minutes to an hour – and it will age gracefully for another decade or more.” I tasted lots of black fruit, plum, bay leaf, olive tapenade, graphite and earth. So good.
The newest vintage – the 2020 – recalls the challenges of the pandemic and the wildfires that raged through much of Napa Valley. On top of that, this was the year that Braiden’s first son was born in September. The production team of four stayed operational since the business was deemed essential but at a safer pace.
The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon has a powerful, darker fruit profile, great acidity, and excellent depth and complexity. “It’s still a bit tightly wound, so while it’s drinking nicely now, it will benefit from additional bottle aging, he told me.
The Impact of the Fires
We also talked about how the fire impacted Mayacamas. In 2020, the winery was fortunate that the LNU fires did not impact the quality of the grapes, and the grapes were harvested before the Glass fires. Albrecht notes that both fires did inspire some new winemaking practices. They were lucky to be above the smoke with their high position on Mount Veeder. Out of an abundance of caution, during the LNU fires, they rinsed fruit on the sorting line, shortened maceration times, and kept free-run and press juice separate at barrel down. Once the Glass Fire hit, they started draining and pressing fermentations to get the wines safely into the barrel as fast as they could. Post fire turned into a long-term risk management plan that included getting injection sprinklers to keep the vineyard and winery safe after the fire as well as planning for frost.
I loved when he told me, “There are so many options with technology and now we are back to analog – meaning that they are back to basics on getting the vines in a place they can continue to get better while having the freedom to make great wines.”
We talked about the importance of organic and how certification is not the driver. “Biodynamic farming is the way to go for better grape quality that helps us understand and enrich soils. My kids come to the vineyard, and I want to feel safe about coming there,” he told me.
Mayacamas Winery’s 20-year retrospective of Cabernet Sauvignon is a testament to the legacy of this historic Napa Valley estate. Under Braiden’s guidance, Mayacamas has successfully bridged the gap between tradition and innovation, producing wines that honor the vineyard’s storied past while embracing the future. As Mayacamas continues to set the standard for excellence in winemaking, it remains a beacon of sustainable practices and a model for the next 135 years.
