The story of Xurus Wine began with two brothers-in-law who shared a passion for making world-class wine. They found a special vineyard in Lake County, California, and realized they could break all the area stereotypes of the region and create something special. To achieve their goal, they hired Denis Malbec, a world-renowned winemaker and consultant from Bordeaux who formerly worked at Château Latour, to craft the first Xurus Cabernet Sauvignon in 2007.
I talked to the two Xurus co-owners, Ali Namdar and Kambiz Safinya, about how they first decided this secluded vineyard in Lake County could produce high-quality Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. By bringing in one of the industry’s top winemakers and focusing on meticulous care of the vines, they brought that vision to reality.
It took over a year to buy the vineyard. Then they began the land tests to show them exactly where they needed to farm. They told me it wasn’t about Lake County as a region. It was all about the specific vineyard.
Inspired by the ancient Persian religion of Zoroastrianism, the rooster (Xurus) signifies the guardian angel protecting from darkness, just as a good wine can elevate an occasion.
They told me that Denis found them. He was friends with David Weiss, the vineyard manager, who introduced the vineyard and they both determined a world-class Bordeaux-style Cabernet could be made. The warm days and cool mountain nights, coupled with the rich soil, presented a unique opportunity to craft wines that are not typical for Lake County.
This was the first time Denis made a wine in the US and he was responsible for all the decisions. It was all about making ultra-premium wines that maintained a sense of place (in a surprising location) and reflected what happened each vintage.
The trio appreciated that the Cabernets were not made to impress a certain reviewer, be part of a vanity venture, or generate immediate cash flow. They implemented sustainable practices, paying close attention to the vines, and ensured only the finest grapes were chosen during harvest. They weren’t driven by quantity; they focused on getting the most nuanced flavors from each grape.
Denis’ expertise, which was developed during his tenure at Château Latour in Bordeaux, perfectly complemented the unique terroir of the Lake County vineyard.
Sadly, Denis’ life ended in 2016 in a car accident in Yountville. When I asked Ali and Kambiz about plans for the label, they talked about how “when a master painter or artist passes away, their works are still in this world as a collectible thing of beauty, your goal is to make sure the world knows about these wines.”
The offering that I tried has a price tag of $1,500 for the six bottles. It is a six-year Cabernet Sauvignon vertical from 2009-2014 all made by Denis. The wines are hand-crafted from a blend of three Cabernet Sauvignon clones produced at Sonatina Vineyards. Berries are handpicked, de-stemmed, mechanically sorted on a “Le Trieur” shaker table, and hand sorted. The must is then cold soaked for five or six days, followed by fermentation and extended maceration. The wine is aged in six different French oak barrels selected to match the terroir of the winery.
There are limited cases left of these wines combining Old World elegance of a world-class winemaker and New World passion. These wines are a delicious legacy from a master. Here are my tasting notes:
- 2009 Xurus Cabernet Sauvignon – notes of blackberry, pencil lead, leather, tobacco, mocha and clove. Still was a juicy, fruit-forward wine.
- 2010 Xurus Cabernet Sauvignon – I tasted raspberry, chocolate, mocha and herbal notes.
- 2011 Xurus Cabernet Sauvignon –lots of aroma in the glass with notes of flowers, blackberry, pencil lead, earth and herbs. This was a fun one to watch the day-by-day evolution.
- 2012 Xurus Cabernet Sauvignon –notes of raspberry, cassis, cranberry, plum, chocolate, mocha and thyme. It will benefit from the gift of time (aging).
- 2013 Xurus Cabernet Sauvignon — notes of coffee, blue fruit, blackberry, tobacco, mocha and anise. Another one that will benefit from aging, but is insanely good today.
- 2014 Xurus Cabernet Sauvignon – notes of anise, cherry, cassis, cedar, chocolate, Asian spice, and cocoa.
We wrapped up the meeting with the statement that Xurus can’t be duplicated without the artist behind it and the understanding there will be no future vintages. The inspiration that Denis found in a California region not known for making world-class Cabernet Sauvignon to show the soul of this vineyard combining Old World elegance with the adventure of the New World combined with dedication, terroir, and a pursuit of excellence.
